Ex**MADELEINE VIONNET

Madeleine Vionnet greatly influenced the course of fashion during the 20s and 30s, but, in contrast to so many fashion creators, she chose an intensely private lifestyle, no mundane frivolities. Her ideas led to a more natural trend in women’s fashion: freeing women from the constraints of the corset, MD's models followed the body’s forms, rather like Greek sculpture. She added a third dimension to clothes, giving them a flowing and supple structure, which not only expressed the body’s shape, but giving them an emotional dimension as well. "
"When a woman smiles, her dress should also smile" In 2007 Rodolfo Paglialunga,ex Prada, was called by Matteo Marzotto,new owner of the brand,to re elaborate the main stylistic codes of MD into a new contemporary vision.With a interesting result.

Everlasting Excellence:Dolce & Gabbana 90'es

EX**DAMIR DOMA

Damir Doma is a Croation designer has worked in Antwerp and is now based out of Paris.

His interesting and engaging approach to fashion comes as no surprise when one learns that he has modeled his company after his mentor, Raf Simons.

Which would explain among others things Doma being a “fabric freak” which can make garments right or wrong, “And it lends itself to [his] higher concept.”

His mission:
“To build a modern and sensitive men’s collection. For years, I was so bored of men’s fashion. The only designer who interested me was Raf Simons. With my line, I want to change the way men’s fashion is made, to break up the suit. My line is about soft silhouettes and construction. I make jackets that look structured, but they’re not stiff and they don’t have things like shoulder pads. A man has to look cool.”DD

Excellent RIGOUR & SOPHISTICATION FW 10/11:GARETH PUGH

Gareth Pugh
www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkB4SZL7cUA&feature=related

Excellent switch

Excellence exhibition:Heidi Slimane Dior Homme

Prima delfino di Yves Saint Laurent, a capo dell pret-a-porter uomo prima di Tom Ford,poi una appassionante collaborazione con Dior come chief designer della linea uomo,ora fotografo.
Un talento immenso,un mostro raro.Un' idea chiara in mente e nessun dubbio:una giovinezza acerba non intaccata dal passare del tempo e dalla consapevolezza,un racconto adolescenziale dai tratti romantic-noir,la fluidità della sessualità,mai troppo definita,il dandy-rock ed il divertimento.Mai sguagliato,ma comunque urlato.
Gli abiti superslim,le giacche con le spacche piccolissime ed i revers mini,il decorativismo,le camicie con il collo stretto.Ma anche l'uomo con i jeans skinny e la gonna portafoglio ed il bomber ricamato.
I tratti ed i colori di questo grande artista.Una visione elitaria che si "trasforma in forma" e diviene stile .
Questo lo rende eterno ed una pietra miliare nella storia della moda maschile.
Chi ha la fortuna di avere nell'armadio qualcuno dei suoi pezzi,se li tenga stretti.

Excellent shelter:Senz umbrellas

Ecco qui come essere dannatamente stylish,nonostante pioggia e tifoni.
Gli ombrelli Senz sono decisamente il touch-up che volevamo.
Da abbinare al più bel Aquascutum che avete nell'armadio.